MATERIALS NEEDED
DK Yarn in flesh colour (light pink or peach), white, brown, and small amounts of black and red.
3.00 mm crochet hook.
Yarn needle.
Polyester stuffing.
A pair of 6 mm safety eyes.
A stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.
ABBREVIATIONS USED
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
hdc = half double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
inc = increase
dec = decrease
st = stitch
sts = stitches
CC = change colour
BLO = in back loops only
FLO = in front loops only
MR = magic ring
FO = fasten off
This pattern uses American terminology.
Gauge is not important for this project.
HEAD & TORSO
Start with flesh colour yarn.
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2: inc x 6 (12)
R3: BLO (inc, 1) x 6 (18)
R4-7: sc across (18)
R8: (dec, 1) x 6 (12)
Insert safety eyes between R6 and R7, about five sts apart. (To make stuffing easier, I find it helpful to trim the ends of the eye stems with a wire cutter, once they are secured in place.)
Stuff head.
R9: dec x 6 (6)
Add some extra stuffing, if necessary.
R10: FLO (inc, 1) x 3 (9)
R11: (inc, 2) x 3 (12)
R12: (inc, 1) x 6 (18) CC to white
R13 & R14: sc across (18)
R15: (dec, 7) x 2 (16)
R16: (dec, 6) x 2 (14)
R17: (dec, 5) x 2 (12)
R18: sc across (12)
R19: (inc, 1) x 6 (18) CC back to flesh colour.
R20: BLO sc across (18)
Sl st in next st. FO.
At this stage your nurse should look something like this:
FIRST SHOE AND LEG
Start with brown
R1: 6 sc in MR
R2: (4 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) x 2 (12)
R3: BLO sc across (12)
R4: dec, 1, dec, 3, dec, 2 (9)
R5: dec, 1, dec, 4 (7) CC to flesh colour.
R6: sc across (7)
FO brown and tuck in the loose ends. That should be enough to stuff the shoe. If necessary, add a bit of extra stuffing, but don’t overstuff. Shape shoe.
R7-14: sc across (7)
Sl st in next.
FO
Stuff leg.
SECOND SHOE AND LEG
Make like first, but don’t sl st and don’t FO at the end.
Attaching the two legs together:
R15: sc in next 6 (you’re still working on the second leg), line up the two legs, sc in the 7 sts of the first leg, sc in the next st of second leg. (14)
R16: 2, inc, 6, inc, 4 (16)
R17: 2, inc, 8, inc, 4 (18)
Sl st and FO, leaving long end for sewing.
Your legs should look like this:
DRESS
Now with the dress, you’ve got two options – both with its own advantages & disadvantages – and a third one, which I haven’t tried yet.
Option One: You make the dress before attaching the legs. This method makes it easier to crochet, but because the dress is so tight, I found it a bit difficult to roll it upwards at the end.
Option Two: You crochet the dress after attaching the legs. This method is a bit awkward, because the legs get in the way, but once you’ve done it, you’re done.
Option Three (untried): You make the dress as a separate piece and sew it on at the end, after attaching the legs.
If you use Option Two, attach the legs first to R20 of torso.
Stuff thoroughly before closing the gap. Your doll should look like this:
If you use Option One, leave this step until after you’ve made the dress.
With head facing you, attach white in one of the free front loops of R19.
R1: ch 1, sc across in the free loops of R19. (18)
R2-8: sc across (18)
R9: sl st across.
FO.
HAT
With legs facing you, attach white in one of the free front loops of R2 of head.
R1: sc across (going through the rest of the front loops) (12)
R2: (inc, 3) x 3 (15)
R3: sc across (15)
R4: BLO (dec, 3) x 3 (12)
Stuff lightly.
R5: dec x 6 (6)
FO.
ARMS (make 2)
Ch 11.
Hdc in third ch from the hook and in next 7, 3 hdc in last.
Working on the opposite side, hdc in next 7, 2 hdc in last ch, sl st to first hdc. (20)
FO.
Fold lenghtways and sew together.
Attach to body.
HAIR
With brown, embroider hair, using photo as guide.
FINISHING TOUCHES
Embroider red cross on the hat, embroider mouth and eyebrows.